The only (unworkable) solution I could think of until now was to have batten in the leech of the jib a bit shorter than the middle panel that is thinner at its ends so it gradually arcs into the shelfs while keeping the leech straighter in the middle. As the rig is self-tacking there is no risk of being taken aback and forced onto either tack, and when the boat reaches the new close-hauled heading for the sheet setting the rig immediately develops full drive. The general advice should therefore be to aim for no more than half the weight of an ordinary sail of the same area. Any issues with the rig are totally self inflicted. Thanks Mike for the reference and information! One needs to fit a good tiller lock though.
In my case though, I left all the jib panels completely separate from the Main (as per Amiina's current set-up) so I can adjust them back and forth a bit till I find the perfect balance. You mentioned your video while sailing, any chance that you posted it? Should take less than 1 hour…, Looking forward to see videos of it sailing ( best compliments for keeping the camera steady and making a worth-seeing video), Great job! At the luff end of the battens of the main section, I would sew on small webbing loops, and do the same to the leech end on the jiblets.
David, I usually prefer to write about things I have experience in, but this time I jump in with some armchair ‘expertise’, having not made a split JR myself. From what I see there isn't enough information to say whether you could use a split junk with the present mast position, and Paul Thompson is probably right in saying your easiest option would be to simply use an Arne type cambered rig.
And the unfamiliarity of sailing a Junk rig along with not being used to aft main sheeting and with no cleat. We used only 5° rise on Amiina's latest sale and with the high sail balance it is more than adequate. Thanks
I’ve been using a scaled-down copy of the Poppy plan for the preliminary design. I guess I would prefer to have the luff of the jiblet section in line with the luff of the top section, but I bet the sail will work fine even if these end up a bit out of line.
I hope this helps to clear the situation. Each reef removes 28 sq ft (it has three reefs).
Posted on 3rd Jun 2019 by martinwbrown. These will see quite some load when under way. Even on a rough trip upwind on the Ijsselmeer with steep short waves we kept up very well with boats much larger as ours. var year = today.getFullYear()
Did I miss them? Note that the battens don’t align in this picture. I also rigged up a yard peaking halyard to peak up the yard and allow the camber to develop to the designed batten rise angle and help remove those diagonal creases. var year = today.getFullYear()
Split Junk Rig sail plan.
Two observations from looking at them are -. That was the Chinese way of doing it.
Besides, in your member's album it is much easier to find your photos later. Then again, I have uploaded a new picture at http://www.junkrigassociation.org/Sys/Profile/PhotoGallery?memberId=3348632. Why should he, as he is an expert in his own excellent rig? On my 7-panel, ordinary JR for my last boat, Frøken Sørensen, I used the Odyssey 3 of around 220gsm. I suppose I would like some one to do my experiments for me to satisfy my curiosity, so you can call me 'lazy' or 'selfish', or both. The only remaining symmetry issue is the eccentricity of the battens relative to the mast. The drawings for the FolkBoat are particularly interesting in this respect.'. When Tacking from Close-hauled to close-hauled the split junk rig is very good. Fuller details will be found in AYRS’ Journal, Catalyst, Issue No 37, which may be downloaded or obtained from the Society.
I have finally posted some pictures in my album of the sail construction and on the boat. could I suggest that you upload the photos you will show us to your member's album? Emmelène has a split junk rig, which means about a third of the sail area is ahead of the mast and formed of conic sections called “jiblets”. In it, one of Bernd’s customers (Mike) shows off his recently completed Little Tri. ( Log Out / The JRA (Junk Rig Association), formed in 1980, aims to further the development of the junk rig and to create an international community of people interested in such rigs to share experience and ideas. Junk Rig .
This is not the case in the majority of cases, but when writing the article I did a sketch of the classic FolkBoat with the original small jib and found that when aligning the centre of area of the standard rig and the split junk rig that the mast position of the junk was almost exactly the same as for the Bermudan rig. Therefore here is some of our writing of our experiences of the rig on Ti Gitu. With the split junk the short leeches of the ‘jibs’ do not have the same drag and do not significantly slow the boat as it heads up so that it is possible to take your time during the manoeuvre. Tacking is roughly trough 90 degrees, I didn’t exactly measure but it is as good as you would want it to be. And I'd have to build a jig for bending the battens if I don't want to just eyeball it. Will keep you posted on the success of it's use. Trimaran Design, Rigging, Construction Info/Links. The split sail was home made in 3 sections of 6oz Terylene, and is 515 sq.ft (47.5 sq.m), the same area as the Bermudan rig mainsail and 135% genoa. The split junk rig is looking more and more promising, and thanks for outlining the developments you have made.
As well as making the sail hang correctly it is necessary to get the balance of the boat correct.
It is practical and simple to have a batten running straight and in one piece, so I doubt that eliminating the eccentricity is worthwhile to fulfil the ideal, but I just would like to mention the thought. Required fields are marked *. The main issue I hit was the instability of the top section of the sail – while it was possible to get everything aligned a slight change would cause the sail to move around too much.
AYRS Zoom meeting Saturday, 12 September 2020 at 19:30 BST, 27 July – site down for server maintenance (completed), Zoom Mtgs. I would just make sure I had a good vertical connection between the top section and the rest of the sail at luff and leech.
The rule of thumb seems to be that the mast of a split junk can go where the mast of a fractional sloop rig would be. I did just as you said below and sewed on some webbing at each end of the Jib and Main to allow me to tie the Jib and Main panels together and also to the ends of the battens,etc. Mine definitely is farther forward. The sail plan itself comes directly from his drawings, resized to get the correct CE to the boat, and shortened by three panels for a smaller sail area. ( Log Out / Handling it with the sail bundle inside easily causes damage when it snags somewhere. The split junk rig is looking more and more promising, and thanks for outlining the developments you have made. Graeme, the skou has been in the shed for some time. Discover (and save!) Under these conditions the unstayed mast has an effect that tends to reduce the pitching moment of the boat. document.write(year)
the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors, Charts, Guides, Navigation, Stars & Weather. The lessons learned will be used in a new sail in the coming months.
If you keep the luff haul and move the attachment point on the yard further aft you will be able to balance the helm much more easily. We’re hoping for those to come very soon.
The codes after the boat name in the title indicate what filtering has been applied. If you do consider a shelf foot solution I would suggest you use an angled shelf foot as I feel the flat shelf foot puts too much unnecessary material across the panels, and is an inferior way to build a sail. (Now will be the best part … he’ll gets to ENJOY the boat :-). } catch(e) {}
With the mast nearing completion it is time to finalise the sail plan. These direct airflow over the main part of the panels abaft the mast. 856-204-0433 - The online community for enthusiasts of trailerable (and cartopable) trimarans. Posted on 3rd Jun 2019 by martinwbrown. If that's the case, unfortunately for me, it's out with the wallet for bigger battens and the sewing machine again. As they are now the jibs seem to do a good job, different solutions I can think of all seem to be very complicated. Emmelene's sail (Amina's old sail) has 5 panels and 1 top panel. Your email address will not be published. could I suggest that you upload the photos you will show us to your member's album? Whatever the theory - "the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
It's the batten angle rise which causes the assymetry, I think. In my case, the junk rig is a non-negotiable must have as a solo sailor who insists on simple and reliable. On a Bermudan boat the long leech of the headsail will flap as the boat heads above close-hauled and will slow the boat until the sails are filled on the other tack. The fine folks at the Junk Rig Association have tried many different designs to improve windward performance of the junk rig: my personal favorite being the Split Junk, developed by Slieve McGalliard.
They might flip the wrong way on one tack if I need the sail as far forward as I have it now. Masts have been successfully made from wood, aluminium and steel as well as more expensive modern materials. This part will discuss some particulars about sail panel design and construction. What angle do you feel you are tacking through? This was on the heavy side for such a small 20sqm sail (only 2.86 sqm per panel). We've learned a lot for the cambered batten experiments, but I'm very happy with the performance I get from simple straight tubes. Also, the split panels work well at a greater balance than bulging panels without split. The next video we are going to be waiting to see from Mike is one (or two or three) of the boat sailing. because she was a cat boat I am expecting some lee helm issues. The total sail area (minus the split) is 130 sq feet.
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