All reviewers. Donkey-cart drivers gather outside the Turpan hotel; two or three people will pay around ¥15 each for a tour lasting an hour or more. Official sources put the number of dead at just under 200, the majority of them Han; Uyghur groups claim that the overall figure was much higher, and that hundreds of their own people’s deaths had been covered up. The only pronunciations you are likely to have difficulties with are gh and kh, but you can get away by rendering them as g and k with a light h at the end. Tracing a vague southern parallel to the Tian Shan range, the road from Dunhuang in western Gansu to Turpan covers some of the harshest terrain in all of China – little water ever reaches this area of scorching depressions, which was dreaded by the Silk Road traders as one of the most hazardous sections of the entire cross-Asia trip. China. The second wave of change saw the rest of the market rehoused in a permanent structure just northeast of Dong Hu Park, now simply called the “big bazaar” (大巴扎, dà bāzhā or also 中西亚巴扎, zhōngxīyà bāzhā). The desolation of the landscape only adds to the melancholy: being forced to leave China altogether was a citizen’s worst nightmare, and it was here that disgraced officials and condemned or fleeing criminals had to make their final, bitter farewells. 913m/2995ft) Dry climate The north-west of China consists of huge cold desert and steppe basin landscapes (Tarim Basin, Dsungaria, Mongolian Basin), surrounded by snow-capped mountain ranges. In 1900 a wandering Taoist priest, Wang Yuanlu, stumbled upon Mogao and decided to make it his life’s work to restore the site, excavating caves full of sand, touching up the murals, and even building a guesthouse, which he financed through alms. By 100 BC a dozen immense caravans were heading into the desert each year. This can be arranged at the ticket office – take the only sizeable turn off the north side of the road within the monastery area (on the right if coming from the station). His efforts might have continued in obscurity save for his discovery of a bricked-up chamber (cave 17), which revealed an enormous collection of manuscripts, sutras and silk and paper paintings – some 1000 years old and virtually undamaged. One more cup of wine for our remaining happiness. Ürümqi has become a travel hub for those heading between China and Central Asia. Outer Northwest China (Chinese: å¤è¥¿å; pinyin: Wài XÄ«bÄi) refers to small portions of territories of the Qing dynasty that were later annexed by the Russian Empire through the Convention of Peking, Treaty of Tarbagatai, Treaty of Saint Petersburg (1881) and other unequal treaties referred by Chinese interpretation. The snow line can vary considerably from peak to peak -3000m/10,000ft in the western Tienshan but 5600m/18,500ft in the Pamirs. Vast and varied, traditional yet dynamic - few countries can match China. A good abridgement in English is Arthur Waley’s Monkey. Uyghur dissent reached a peak in July 2009, when Ürümqi witnessed Xinjiang’s worst-ever clashes between its Uyghur and Han populations in recent times. Khotan’s fascinating bazaar takes place every Sunday, although there’s some action here every day. Subsequently, the powerful Han dynasty incorporated the region into their empire, though the central government’s influence remained far from constant for centuries, as Tibetans, Uyghurs and Mongols vied for control. Distances can be huge, public transport non-existent and the weather unrelenting, so it’s usually best to go through a tour operator. In-depth, easy-to-use travel guides filled with expert advice. The train spends hours running along the northern shore; by bus you’ll skirt the southern shore instead. It involves eight vowels and 24 consonants and uses a modified Arabic script. Regional highlights include the mountain pastures outside Ürümqi, where you can hike in rare solitude and stay beside Heaven Lake with Kazakhs in their yurts; but it is the old Silk Road that will attract most travellers, predominantly the oasis towns of Turpan and Kashgar. Dry climate The north-west of China consists of huge cold desert and steppe basin landscapes (Tarim Basin, Dsungaria, Mongolian Basin), surrounded by snow-capped mountain ranges. Xuanzang crossed the Tian Shan into modern Kyrgyzstan, where his religious knowledge greatly impressed the Khan of the Western Turks, before he continued, via the great central Asian city of Samarkand, through modern-day Afghanistan, over the Hindu Kush and into India, arriving about a year after he set out. In it, Xuanzang is depicted as terminally naïve, hopelessly dismayed by the various disasters that beset him. 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